I am just back from a couple of weeks in New
Mexico, where I have been eating chiles
rellenos and raspberries.
Not necessarily together, of course. But
fall in New Mexico is a great time for green
chiles and raspberries both, and it takes a
lot of either one to get sick of them.
Raspberries grow wild in certain high
mountains in New Mexico, as they do in
Arizona. If there’s a better way to spend
your time in the Southwest than
raspberry-picking with a good
four-wheel-drive, I don’t know about it.
The timing is tricky, however, because these
marvelous wild berries have a brief and
unpredictable season. And in dry years, or
in otherwise infelicitous periods of
weather, they barely appear at all.
Our raspberry-farming neighbors in Apache
Creek, New Mexico, tell us that this has not
been a particularly productive year for
raspberries in that neck of the woods.
But that didn’t stop me from buying as many
as they could sell me. These fragile,
labor-intensive fruits are a terrifically
good deal if you can buy them on the farm,
but they’re worth shelling out for in
stores, too — just inspect the berries
carefully for mold first.
I like raspberries fresh with heaps of
whipped cream (which I’ve been flavoring
with NAVAN, the new vanilla-infused cognac
from the makers of Grand Marnier).
They’re also delicious added to muffins or
scones. Rinse your berries and toss them
lightly with flour to absorb excess liquid,
then fold them into your batter as carefully
as possible. They’re going to get a little
crushed — that’s OK.
Raspberries are delicious with apples, and
raspberries and apples make a great crisp.
For the topping, pulse together six
tablespoons of butter, ½ cup flour, ¾ cup
light brown sugar and a generous pinch of
salt in a food processor.
When the butter is in small pieces, add one
cup of rolled oats and pulse to combine.
(You can double this recipe and freeze any
Toss together three cups of peeled, sliced
apples; one pint of raspberries; and a few
tablespoons of sugar. Put the fruit in a
buttered baking dish and spread the oatmeal
mixture over it. Cover the dish with
aluminum foil and bake at 375 degrees for 30
minutes. Then remove the foil and bake until
the apples are soft and the topping is
crisp, another 20 minutes or so.
Raspberry crisp is always terrific, but I’m
recently enamored of raspberry cobbler,
which I made over my vacation with two pints
of gorgeous Apache Creek raspberries.
Here’s what I did:
I rinsed the berries and blotted them dry
with paper towels, then tossed them in a
buttered baking dish with a scant ¼ cup
sugar and a few drops of almond extract.
Then, I sifted together one cup of flour, ¾
teaspoon baking powder, ¼ teaspoon baking
soda, a pinch of salt and one tablespoon
sugar. I used my fingers to crumble three
tablespoons of cold butter into the flour,
then gently stirred in a mixture of one
beaten egg yolk, ¼ cup buttermilk and a few
more drops of almond extract.
When I had a shaggy dough, I pinched off
walnut-sized pieces of it and scattered them
over the fruit. I sprinkled the dough with
sugar, then baked the cobbler at 375 degrees
for about 40 minutes, until the dough was
crusty and the raspberries were bubbling.
(Surprisingly, I didn’t miss cornstarch in
this recipe; the juice from the raspberries
soaked deliciously into the underside of the
The inspiration for this recipe comes from
an Eric Goodman story in a back issue of
Saveur Magazine. Goodman scatters sliced
almonds over the cobbler as well, which
sounds like a good idea for me. Either way,
it’s the perfect Sunday breakfast.